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To be perfectly honest Dili does not have a lot of appeal. It looks and feels like any Indonesian town... dirty and rundown.

It's a long straggly road that follows the line of the coast without any real focal point. It is difficult to know just where the town starts and finishes.

Everything is so slow. The traffic moves along at about 30 kph. No-one is in a hurry. I went to the bank today to get some cash changed. Credit cards are not used here and I had to pay the Perkins bill in cash which left me a bit short. The ANZ is here, so I caught a cab and got to the bank at about 12 midday. Stood in the queue til 3.45, and then had to wait another 30 minutes for them to count, re-count, and count again... do all the paperwork, and then get me to sign everything, including the scrap of paper that the girl had scribbled her calculations on.

Whilst in the queue I had a chat to a New Zealand soldier here with the UN. I asked him what they were doing these days to assist the community... "nothing... absolutely nothing". The New Zealand soldiers, the Australian soldiers, everyone, just sits in their camps and plays cards or whatever. They are not involved with any community projects, and have not been for some years. They don't know what they are doing here. He even said he didn't mind having to stand in the queue at the bank for 4 hours because he had nothing else to do!

The Australian soldiers get paid $10,000 a month, to sit in their camp and do nothing.

Cleared the bike through Customs. That was a challenge also. A few people I spoke to were impressed that I got it done in less than a day.

Staying at the place I told you about. Tibar Beach Retreat. The bungalow a lovely... very comfortable. It's about 12 klm out of town along the coast to the west. The owner is John and I had a long chat with him tonight about the things to see.

I can't see how they could possibly think this place is the new Bali. No way.

The people that run the businesses here are predominantly Portuguese or Chinese, but it seems that they all went to school in Australia. Melbourne seems to be the most popular place in Australia for schooling.

Dinner tomorrow night with Jack who is in the bungalow three down from mine. He is a NGO working in conjunction with the US military. NGO is Non Government Organisation. Laos is full of them. Same here. Commercioal mercenaries.

UN cars are all over the place. When the UN pulls out in December the economy will take a massive hit.

Mossies are bad.

Dili. Indonesian Consulate for visa this morning... again. Photo had the correct colour background this time.

Roads south into the mountains are in very bad shape. Apart from being a series of blind corners wide enough for two pushbikes, the surface is badly potholed. Only 1 to 2 kilometres out of Dili and the poverty is in your face.

There is no water, no electricity, and huts are constructed from whatever materials are available... which usually isn't much, and clinging to the steep mountain slope. What the hell have we been doing here for since the war ended?

The Australian Embassy might be able to shed some light on this so I've tracked back into town for a chat with someone before heading off along the better coastal road.

Will Australia come to this countries aid in 10 years when the unemployment skyrockets? 60% of the population is attending school. There are no jobs now. What will happen when the wave of schoolkids hits the streets? And all this is happening within a few hundred kilometres of Darwin. I feel a real sense of disappointment in our government. What is happening here is not what we are told! What we are shown on television is not honest.

Australia has to take some responsibility for this impending disaster.

Kim is Australia's Consul General and is more than generous with her time to talk about Australia's aid and development programmes.

We are sending 12, yes 12, 'students' to Broome to be lectured in the art of hospitality.

And next year it will increased to 16!

AusAid, which operates under the Aus government banner, is running a programme for a farming community, teaching them about techniques and better methods.

I remain disappointed.

A UN official was wandering along a remote beach late one afternoon and happened to glance upon a Timorese man asleep on the end of a small jetty with his fishing line around his toe.

He said to the Timorese man, "what are you doing just lying around like that?"

The Timorese man replied "I'm catching my dinner for tonight"

The UN guy then said... "but you are wasting so many opportunities my friend. If you showed greater enthusiasm to your task, you could catch more fish, and then sell them to your friends. You could generate more income for your family, and you could buy a bigger house in Dili close to the centre of town. Then you could use the equity in your house to build a property portfolio, and with negative gearing you could use your properties to buy a fleet of small fishing boats. This would increase your income again and you could then develop your own processing and packaging operation. After that you would be able to develop your own brand and market your product around the world."

The Timorese man looked puzzled.

The UN guy went on... "... and then you could sell all your property investments, your share market holdings, your international fleet of commercial fishing vessels, and, and, and...."

"Yes, go on... " said the Timorese man eagerly. "What would I do then?"

You could spend the rest of your life sitting on the jetty fishing!!!!

East of Dili. Bacau. Second largest city on East Timor. The road runs more or less along the northern coast, and is in some parts almost impassable. A few times today I had to grit my teeth and hope for the best. A 4WD provides more security that a 1WD.

The road into the town leads straight to a Roman Catholic church, which is not of any great surprise. The population is so devoutly RC that they built a huge statue of Christ on one side of Dili, and on the other side is a statue of the Pope. He visited here a few years back. Pity he didn't leave some money behind for development... or some boxes of condoms!

Down the hill from the town along a narrow track is the beach. A few small fishing boats, palm trees, and a tiny bar. A group of Aussie Rotarians from Perth are gathered for a barbecue, and I'm invited to join them. They have been re-roofing the local medical centre. Baked fish for dinner with a salad and washed down with a Bintang.

Not having organised digs for the the night, I take a punt on sleeping on the beach. The Rotarians all wander back up the hill to their hotel.

I can't help remembering the white legged Germans on Bali. They would love this place if only they could find it. I found it by accident.

Dozed off about 10 and awoke again during the night from a very strange dream. I was sitting on a beach and The Coodabeens had been singing an old Neil Young song... 'Old Man take a look at yourself'.

I don't know what that means, but it was spooky.

Tomorrow the road goes further east to Los Palos which is the turn around point. From here it's back to Dili, and then on to the Indonesian border.

From the advice I have picked up, the road along the southern coast is not passable. I'm not chancing it. From Dili to here, 120 klm, the road is poor... and this is the main 'highway'.

After a good ride from Baucau this morning I arrived in Com, a small port town that you probably won't find on any map. There is only one town further east from here, and that is Tutuala on the very eastern tip of Timor.

Riding into the town here was a real surprise. It is a rather isolated part of the island, even though it is only about 200 klms from Dili. There is a beautiful resort here, Com Beach Resort, owned by... you guessed it, an Aussie.

I was greeted by hoards of school kids, none of whom spoke a word of English. The schools here teach Tetin, and Portuguese. Tetin is the local language.

I don't understand the Portuguese connection. The locals still have a strong respect for a country that left very little legacy here.

Towards the east of Dili, and the further east you go the more noticeable it is, there are an increasing number of Fretilin flags flying. Fretilin is the guerilla group that fought the war against the invading Indonesian army in the 70's. They are still a strong political force, and in fact only just lost the recent election to the alternative party a few weeks ago.

I thought I was alone here tonight, but when I came down for dinner there was another chap, Andrew, who is the CEO of the Australian Defence Force hospital. He is a civilian, and is having a few days off to explore this end of Timor. We had dinner together, and will travel together tomorrow for the trip to Tutuala on the eastern tip.

Riding into the town today there was a sign on the side of the road "beware alligators". It is such a beautiful beach too.

After Tutuala tomorrow it will be back to Baucau via Los Palos, and Dili on Wednesday. Los Palos is a little south from here and up in the mountains. On all accounts the road is in excellent condition, and there is very little traffic out here. Neither are there any phones or internet, so you won't get this until I get back to Baucau tomorrow.

Discovered another beautiful corner of Timor in the last few days. The north east end of the island has a distinctly different geography and demography than the Dili region. From Baucau to Com the island plateaus and limestone outcrops become the feature of the island, along with terraced rice paddies, some within only 100 metres of the Banda Sea.

Not surprisingly there is a distinct similarity with the 'top end' around Darwin. Stunted eucalypts and a dustiness very similar to the Stuart Hwy north of Tennant Creek during the dry season.

The eastern end of Timor is the historical stronghold of Fretilin, the guerilla group that established the surge to independence. Their support remains strong here if the flags flying in most villages is any indication. Ironically, the roads are better quality the further east you go.

Had the pleasure of meeting an Aussie volunteer today whilst killing a few hours. He is working here as a carpenter, and been here for two years helping villagers increase their basic house repair skills. Quite an inspirational chap, and I suspect of greater benefit to the people he is helping than the hundreds of United Nations staff or NGO's that are here to earn massive salaries.

It is still causing me untold angst that Australia's contribution is being driven by the need to be seen, and not the desire to make a genuine difference. Our closest neighbour is facing some exceptional challenges in the coming years. As the cashed up United Nations withdraws its presence, the unemployment will continue to expand. Australia is offering a modest contribution of 12 places in a hospitality course in Broome. Of course there are other areas where assistance has been initiated, but the combined efforts of our government seem to pale into insignificance against the contributions of private contributors.

The similarities between Laos and Timor are very apparent. The only people that can praise the contribution of governments and NGO's... are governments and NGO's. Through the mountain villages of northern Laos expensive 4WD's terrorise locals... and so it is here. Why do we continue to tolerate this self-serving diplomatic sympathy?

Returning to Dili in the morning and then south west to the border. Have lodged a formal complaint with the Embassy about the reckless driving habits of UN staff, but suspect it will fall on deaf ears... Sadly, UN staff have been responsible for multiple deaths on the roads here. I'm yet to get accurate statistics.

When riding a bike in Indonesia it is important to see the road ahead from the view point of the drivers on the road (and off the road).

These are the rules.

1. If at the back of the line of cars at a red light, accelerate fastest when the lights change colour.
2. If at the front of the line, make a call on your cell phone.
3. If driving on the left side of the road, swerve quickly before someone notices.
4. If driving on the right side of the road, honk, telling the other drivers to swerve also.
5. If your phone rings... answer it straight away. If it doesn't ring... then call a friend.
6. Accelerate.
7. If you see a friend on the side of the road... park your vehicle where it can be seen easily. This usually means in the middle of the road.
8. If you see a police road block ahead, have the money ready in your hand so you don't block the other traffic.
9. Pedestrians don't have wheels, and therefore should not be on the road. Disregard them unless it is likely they will damage your vehicle.
10. Insurance...? What?
11. Never select the correct gear. Standing starts are to be made in 4th gear. Try not to wear out the gear box by using all the gears. If the engine isn't rattling, then your in the wrong gear.
12. Change direction... it's fun.
13. Change again, don't be predictable.
14. Roundabouts are a good shortcut.

That's it really. Simple. Easy for all ages. Why we complicate our lives with rules and regulations is a complete mystery to me.

Hi Jim,

As a sailing man I thought this may be of interest to you.

Movement of people throughout Indonesia is very reliant on an extensive ferry system, which focuses on volume more than quality. This is probably no surprise to you at all.

I have caught 2 ferries, Kupang (West Timor) to Larantuka (Flores), and a return trip to Kupang from Ende on the south side of Flores.

The government run ASDP ferry system operates a fleet of vessels that do continuous loops through various ports. The ferries that are used for the two trips I have taken are Indonesian built vessels, and very much designed specifically for the purpose.

Built in 1993, these single hulled vessels consist of a lower deck, accessed from either end of the vessel by motorised gangways. The large lower deck area can accommodate up to around 20 small trucks, 50 motorcycles, 250 passengers who just roll out their mats and sleep on the floor, and any leftover space usually has chickens, horses, goats, pigs, a considerable amount of manure, and a BMW motorcycle. I strongly suggest that they probably carry well in excess of a safe load when demand is high. The spread of humanity on the floor locates, or re-locates itself, according to the amount and direction of spray and wash that enters through either end of the vessel.

The 2nd or upper deck has seating for 1st class passengers who, for an additional 20,000 Rp ($2), have the luxury of a seat. They also have the company of the toilets and that is another story in itself. One would be inclined to deploy the toiletry tactics of ocean racers as a preference. There is also a small cafeteria if you feel really adventurous. For my part, use of the cafeteria would have resulted in an increased need to use the toilets, so I avoided it.

The top deck is crew quarters as well as all the usual things you would expect to find, like a steering wheel. For the well heeled there is also a VIP room which costs an additional 50,000 Rp ($5). Sadly way beyond my budget.

Powered by two 650 hp diesels, the vessels have two forward/reverse props and two maneuvering props. Top speed is 15nm per hour, which makes for a slow trip. The distances covered on the two trips I have done is about 200nm each trip. Slow and steady.

The boats stay in port if the seas exceed 4 metres.

A crew of 24 who actually live on the boat for 6 months before a months rest on shore. The crew quarters are relatively comfortable and consist of about 6 separate rooms, each furnished according to the hierarchical position of the crew member. Captain, 1st, 2nd and 3rd Mate. Engineer, 1st, 2nd and 3rd Mate, etcetera. The lowly 'sailors' do it tough. Their room is just that... a room. They provide their own sleeping mat.

Navigation is basic. Of course GPS is used along with a map table and traditional charting methods. From the few hours I spent grilling the crew it seems that they are very familiar with the passages they sail, as they are sailing the same routes continuously. Whilst there was no other shipping visible on either of the trips that I did, the crew inform me that super tankers pass through these waters from Australia, heading to Japan. (Iron ore?)

The Savu Sea between Timor and Flores has an average depth of about 2,000 metres, and in its deepest area is over 3,000 metres. That's a lot of water. Because of the regions geography, the ports are all deep water and no dredging is required. The vessels draw only 3 metres when fully loaded. I guess the benefit here is that in the event of an accident, there wouldn't be money wasted on a salvage operation.

The three ports that I have sailed into or out of are all surrounded by volcanoes, and in the case of Ende... active volcanoes emitting lava flow. Whilst a 12+ hours trip only costs around $25 for passenger with motorcycle, the experience is priceless.

The port at Ende, Port Ipi, is a difficult port for these boats. The water can be quite rough, so the ferry docks broadside to load/unload passengers and cargo, then rotates 90 degrees to lower the gangplank for as short a time as possible so vehicular transfers can occur. Riding on to the ferry in Ende is... challenging, and needs to completed as quickly as possible. The process is quite simple. Line up, rev up, and when the crew start yelling... go for it.

Loading and unloading is interesting to watch. It is all done manually by people half my size, and shouldering twice their body weight. Large bags of nuts, furniture, car parts, boxes filled with who knows what. All done by hand. Even a small cement mixer loaded on to the last trip from Ende to Kupang in choppy conditions... resulting in a number of cracked ribs.

I'm Melbourne bound now and will be in Dili by the time you get this update.

Communication has been poor other than for larger towns. Flores, whilst magical, is isolated. The Trans Flores Highway starts as a twisty but well maintained road in the east, and then deteriorates the further west you go. The driving distance is about 750 kilometres, but the island is only about 450 from east to west coast. In some parts it is near impossible to get through after rain. The north/south roads are little travelled and are safe, but narrow and very mountainous. The scenery however is quite spectacular. There was not one place on Flores where at least one volcano was not visible.

Today is my last day in Timor-Lesté before returning to Australia. Bike is in a box and will shortly arrive in Darwin.

Some of you were lucky enough to receive an overview of life in East Timor a while back. For those of you that actually read it, this is a more conclusive overview.

Just across the way from me right now are three UN workers comparing the vehicles that they are driving. Their salaries have already been compared, their favourite holiday destinations were the topic of comparison during cocktails.

This is not the Dili that will be left behind in 2013.

Today I was lucky enough to have a private, albeit brief, chat with Jose Ramos Horta. The East Timorese are desperate for the UN to get out of here as quickly as possible. The consequences of their departure will be devastating. The consequences of their presence is more devastating.

The average salary of an Australian UN worker here is about $10,000 AUD per month. That seems to me to be an extraordinary sum of money... especially when they actually don't do anything.

A reminder of a few statistics.

• 80% of all jobs in Timor Lesté are directly related to the activities of the UN.
• 60% of the population is school age.
• Unemployment is currently 70%
• Average number of children per married woman... 7

The UN will significantly reduce its presence here after Christmas.

A bombshell in a corruption riddled country.

Today a US aircraft carrier parked itself in the harbour. A 5 day sojourn for crew, and 5 days of chaos for Dili. As a security measure during this period, ALL shipping comes to a standstill. Newly arriving vessels sit outside the harbour and wait, ships due to leave sit on the dock fully loaded. Large helicopters ferry crew backwards and forwards all day. Chinouks in pairs circle the city day and night. If you ask anyone "why are they here?" The usual response with a dash of cynicism is "... protecting the world."

It seems a given that the government is going to permit the US militia to construct a large base here. Apparently it will be good for world peace. Why are we engaging in an alms race? What is the real reason we spend billions of dollars on military hardware? Does anybody really believe the Chinese are a global threat? In any event they have already taken over the world... without guns.

Most businesses in Timor Lesté are a owned and run by Chinese. Similar in Indonesia, Malaysia, etc etc.

The average citizen of East Timor earns around 250 USD a month. Relative to the cost of living... that's not a lot. Remember, 70% unemployment, and growing rapidly. In the hills around Dili huge crowds of Timorese live in the most squalid conditions, a few sheets of tin, no water, no electricity, no job, no car, and 7 kids either crying or eating or making babies in the true Catholic tradition. Never have I seen so many pregnant 14 year olds. Well done Benedict!

There is an air of desperation on the faces of the people. A real sense of hopelessness, and a feeling that people don't care.

There is little here to attract tourists. It is expensive, it is filthy dirty, there is no sanitation to speak of. Rubbish is piled roadside... and left to rot. Around Dili this is more evident than in the remote areas where the local communities seem to be proudest of their region. Corruption is rampant. Roads and bridges under construction remain so until the project is abandoned because the contractors are nowhere to be found. Allocated funds find their way into pockets, not potholes. And all the while the UN sits around on its hands and does nothing.

Changes often require generational change. Profound changes require revolution.

120 kilometres south west of Dili it is different picture altogether. Indonesian West Timor is clean and green. Infrastructure is completed, the roads are remarkably good. The public transport system, even in the most remote areas, is fantastic. And, there is not any sign of the desperate poverty on open display in Dili.

The most noticeable difference that is simply 'unmissable' is that there is aura of happiness, everywhere.

TImor Lesté is an extremely challenged country. It's hard to imagine that conditions will improve here over the coming years, in fact coming decades. I am very sure many people here question whether the price of independence is affordable.

Darwin. Sitting outside Customs House in Lindsay Street waiting for the office to open. It's 6am. Flight up was too short, and too long. Too short to get a good night's sleep, and long enough to be boring. 4 hours with nothing more than a magazine.

It's a warm and muggy morning. The wet season has officially commenced and the air is thick. Accommodation prices are still high as the hotels try to milk as much out of the waning tourist numbers as they can. Virgin wouldn't have made much on this flight... only about 30 passengers.

Everything in Darwin is new. Nature forced a revitalization of the city when Tracy tore this place apart. Nature will wear the newness down very quickly, just the same as it does in Singapore and, in a different way, Dubai.

AQIS has already cleared the bike, and customs is usually a simple formality. Should be down at the docks to start scraping the mould off everything by mid morning. Then ride out to Winellie for a service which will take a few days.

Before last year I had never been to Darwin. Now, after four visits, I feel I know the place well enough to run tours here. In any event, there is not that much to see or do. The main attraction is Mitchell Street which turns into a zoo after 8pm. To the east is Kakadu. To the west is Indonesia, and to the south is a vast expanse of desert that takes at least 3 days to traverse.

The population here is an interesting mix of expats and tourists. The expats work and drink, the tourists just drink. Whilst it might not be politically correct to say so... the true locals just drink and relax on the footpath. Food is quite expensive. Maybe that's why everyone drinks so much!

The busiest community in tropical Darwin is the ant community. Busy deconstructing everything that is old or new, natural or man-made. Even government owned property. Not even ants have respect for tax payers. A Bull Ant just walked across my screen which means it has crawled up my leg.

Hmmm! 9am and things have just taken a turn for the worse. A very helpful Rebecca at the Customs Office has just informed me that AQIS has NOT actually cleared the bike, and that an inspection has to be arranged. Before AQIS can arrange an inspection they have to create a 'case file', and this takes 4 hours. The inspection can then be booked... and is likely to be next week. In order that they can create a 'case file' copies of documents that prove ownership have to be supplied. These documents are on the bike. Perkins won't give me access to the bike until I have customs clearance. I think this is what would be regarded as a classic Catch 22... or maybe a Catch 222.

It's time to smile, be decisive, and swing abuse at a few public servants.

Head kicking public servants is no fun. It's like Soccer... a game that is easy to play, and rarely gets a result.

AQIS can now do an inspection Friday at 10.45 (today)... which is 5 days earlier than what I was told yesterday. How did that happen?

Darwin received a drenching overnight, the tourist zoo on Mitchell Street was very subdued. There was only one street fight that I observed... and that was between a rather plump English girl and her scrawny whitewashed boyfriend. Rather funny watching two primed up tourists try to have a rational discussion at a taxi stand in the rain. She won. She had mass in her favour. It seems that he had taken a fancy to a scantily clad lassie in the pub.

The moisture that came down last night is now going back up again for a repeat show this evening. It's so humid here that even the cockroaches are staying in the shade. My taxi driver for the 3 kilometre trip to Perkins office on the wharves needed directions. Sadly, I could not speak his language... so we relied on lots of finger pointing, some of which was quite aggressive.

Patrick from AQIS has taken all of 5 minutes to give my bike a clean bill of health, and paid little attention to the forest of mould that has developed inside the panniers. He seemed more consumed with his upcoming trip to Auckland, a substantial proportion of which I have just paid for.

The Stuart Highway beckons, but the storm clouds are building up. Must be getting soft in my dotage. Another night in Darwin, a chance to wash out the cultures that have established in gloves, boots, jacket and jeans.

Sunrise... south into the desert.

The Australian Labor Party has strong historical ties with central Queensland. Barcaldine, which until recently I always pronounced as it reads, is home to the Tree of Knowledge, underwhich the first union movement was established.

More recently, Paul Keating visited Hughenden on the Finders Highway and soon afterwards made his celebrated remarks about Australia's geographic location in anatomical terms. He was clearly inspired by his visit. And he was right!

400 kilometres to the west is Cloncurry, 400 kilometres to the east is Townsville, and in between is nothing, apart from an occasional tree or dead animal. The stench of rotting road kill lingers, which must be why the motel rooms have an overpowering antiseptic smell that is so intense it makes your eyes itchy.

A quick stop at the Camooweal Roadhouse earlier today was an opportunity to hear the locals communicating in their native tongue.

"Wad ya wan mate?"
"I'll have three dim sims please."
Girl, turns towards kitchen and yells...
"Ware outta fuckin dimmies."

It is so hot that the petrol pump in Hughenden won't work. 45 degrees today. Overnight in Mount Isa the temperature dropped to a balmy 34.

The mining boom has pushed prices of accommodation to staggering heights. Every modest petrol stop has placed a string of 'demountables' on the spare paddock next door, and charges a minimum of $100 a night. Rented Toyota utes with magnetic signs on the door pack the carparks of every 'hotel'. No wonder the 'boom' is faltering... we are losing our competitive edge. Pricing ourselves out of the international market. Being greedy!

And where are all the Australian hospitality workers that we've been churning out of our colleges over recent years? They are certainly not out here. Irish, French, even Dutch workers serving in the most remote part of the country... but no Aussies. Curious.

Do fingernails grow faster than hair?